Southern Crete
The cities of Crete, along with most of the tourist infrastructure, are based in the northern half of the island. Several mountain ranges divide it in half, making the windy journey from north to south and back take a long time. This means that some visitors never venture to the lower half of Crete. That’s a big mistake – huge! – because how else would you see some of the most pristine beaches and charming fishing villages that Greece has to offer?
What to Do
Book a day with a boat from Annie and Christos of Sailing South Crete, a husband and wife operation focusing on this less-touristy southern coast. With their yacht, they can take you to some of the island’s most gorgeous swimming spots: a deserted beach near Ilingas, Glyka Nera Beach, and the caves at Marmara Beach. There are usually light snacks and drinks on board, but a stop in Loutro – a car-free fishing village accessible mainly by boat – can provide a more substantial meal at one of the waterfront taverns. (They also offer a variety of routes, which can include Balos plus the uninhabited island of Gramvousa.)
For a more accessible beach excursion, head to the southern part of Rethymno – about 30 minutes from the Old Town: Preveli is considered one of the most stunning thanks to its sandy beach and crystal-clear waters. But for even more idyllic waters, Gogos recommends the untouched beaches in Agia Fotini, Triopetra, and Agios Pavlos. “You can see a fisherman pulling his catch out of the water and taking it straight to the kitchen,” he says.
More active travelers should put on their hiking boots and take on the Samaria Gorge. It’s a challenging trek, but you’ll pass by Venetian castles, quaint villages, farmland, and breathtaking views. In Sarakinas Gorge – on the eastern side of the island, a short hike can lead to swimming under waterfalls.
It’s also worth exploring Ierapetra, considered the southernmost city in Europe. Its main beach – a long stretch of black pebbles – is an easy spot for sunbathing or some water sports, but once you’re satisfied, you can also visit the old Venetian-era fortress Kales, as well as the city’s collection of historic churches. Ierapetra is also where most set off by boat to the uninhabited island of Chrissi, a protected nature reserve where you can see lizards, rabbits, and over 100 species of birds while sunbathing on beaches with pure sand.
Where to Eat and Drink
The southern coast of Crete is dotted with modest yet lively fishing villages filled with outdoor restaurants. La Sera in Myrtos, Alatsi in Ierapetra, and Pavlos in Loutro are worth checking out. At Spilia tou Drakou (or Dragon’s Cave Tavern), you can tuck into fish cakes, lamb ribs, and snails with vegetables picked from the owner’s garden.
Where to Stay
Numo Ierapetra Beach Resort Crete, Curio Collection by Hilton looks as if it was plucked straight from the beaches of Ibiza or Tulum. In this adults-only hotel, expect minimalist interiors built around dark wood, a primary palette of almost white, and plenty of thin sheer curtains. On top of that, there is a full list of wellness and fitness initiatives; the scents of Asian fusion waft from the kitchen, and DJ sets by the pool. However, group trips can make use of Picturesque Vantage, a modern five-bedroom villa near Agia Galini Beach, as a luxurious home base.